Chilling in Jilling - An Escape To An 80-Year-Old Home In The Hills
One Minute Take Away
Year on Year, travelling into regular hill stations, inhaling a bit less polluted, a more healthy and fresh air (compare to air in Delhi), I always wondered if somewhere in Himalayas in India I could enjoy a vacation in peaceful environment, away from noise, regular hill station crowds and enjoy pollution free, fresh and healthy air. And this year in January, I found my answer in Jilling Terraces, Nainital, Uttarakhand. An 80-year-old cottage in the middle of nowhere, Jilling Terraces is the perfect spot to abscond to when you just want to curl up and breathe in spectacular views or spend some quality time with yourself...!!!
How The Trip was Finalized
It was my second trip with office friends from CarDekho. Right from the moment when we boarded the return bus from Jim Corbett to Delhi in Aug'16, the planning for the next trip started. The next trip was supposed to happen in January/February 2017. On 18th Jan'2017, during a regular teem meeting, Umesh proposed the trip to "Jilling Terrace". And everyone else was like - What? Jilling Terrace? What is this? Where is this place. 30 seconds with Google Images finding Jilling Terrace and everyone was in the game for Jilling Terrace (JT). Such was the power of following image that everybody said yes immediately after seeing it. After completing the reservations at the property, train tickets to Kathgodam from Delhi were booked for 17 Feb'17 evening and few of us decided to catch 18 Feb morning train due to their personal and professional commitments.
Making the Trip Happen and Catching The trains
Just like every time, a few of us were not keen to go and requested for cancellations. However, cancellations were delayed with a hope that those looking for cancellations will join the trip at the last minute. Finally, the journey started with 6 of us catching train on 17th Feb. We were all boarding train in a pursuit of discovering ourselves and connecting to ourselves in Jilling in next 2 days. The train journey was fun, as it always is when you are with your friends. We played board games, card games, and then Sunny started sharing his college days stories or famous food items available at different locations we were passing through.
With a couple of hours sleep in the train, we reached at Kathgodam Station at 5am to begin our journey to the unknown. On one side we 6 were starting our journey to Jilling from Kathgodam, and on the other side 3 more friends were gearing up for catching the 18th Feb morning train. The trio was running late and asked cab driver to drive fast. Obeying the instructions from his customers, the way the cab driver was driving, he would have challenged the driving skills of Formula One Champion at that point of time. Thanks to early morning empty roads, the trio reached the station just a couple of minutes before the train departure. Had Usain Bolt watched the trio running with heavy suitcases in their hands and backpacks on their shoulders, he would have met Umesh offering him his coach position for his upcoming racing events.
The Journey to the Unknown
The 6 of us were in Innova by 5.30 am and started our journey to Maital, a place 30kms away from Kathgodam station. We all grabbed a quick bite in a local restaurant and continued our journey to Maital. During those 30kms we crossed a lake, a bridge over a river, some steep turns, and saw the sun spreading the sunlight on trees and houses across the region. That was beginning of a journey, which we all were going to have it in our memories for long long time. Finally, by 7am we reached Kumaoni village in Maital and were all set to begin the 2kms long trek. Excitement all around...!!!
A few meters on the trek, and one thing was very clear that it was not an easy trek as we all were thinking when we booked the Jilling Terraces. Vipul and Vishesh were looking like two guys were some other planet (Jaadoooo) were trekking like we use to walk in plains/office after lunch. That was the time, we realised how important fitness is. Another 250 meters on the trek, and couple of us decided to let others go/trek at their own pace. It generally, takes 45 Minutes to 90 Minutes depending on one’s pace to complete the trek. The trail/trek is beautiful and peaceful, cutting through lush mountain forests. In parts it is steep, sometimes soft, but always beautiful, dotted with Red Brawns flowers. The mountains half in dark, half in sunlight, the pin drop silence in the jungle, the noise of air passing through tall trees all across the jungle, the flowers and leaves on the trail and the trail made of mountain stones made the morning very beautiful and romantic.
Old Hindi songs (Junglee, Mere Sapno Ki Rani, Roop Tera Mastana, Likhe jo Khat Tujhe etc etc.) on Karaoke Mike was very helpful during the trek. We took almost 120 minutes to cover the 2 kms distance. That was the time, I realised that I was not fit at all, if I wish to cover any of the real treks in Himalayas. (This was my first discovery on the trip in pursuit to discover myself). Vipul and Vishes cover the trek in about 30 minutes and we were left wondering if it was their fitness that helped them to cover in such a short time or there was actually something, which 4 of us missed. Thats the mystery, which will remain a mystery, perhaps forever, unless and until V&V decide to open the secrets. By 9am all 6 of us were at the top of hill, in front of our guesthouse.
On the backside there was another mountain and the front side has a beautiful valley. You feel like sitting there and keep on watching the sky, the mountains, the trees, the jungle and keep wondering the life style that all we have in crowded and jam-packed urban areas. The place is so beautiful that you don't feel like doing anything other than talking to yourself for hours under the crystal clear sky. We all had fresh vegetables juice and decided to look around the property, that was looking as beautiful as we thought while booking it.
Hardly an hour in the property, and three of us were found in 'deep sleep'. And we were wondering how could some one be so cruel to the beautiful nature, how could someone be so lazy to sleep in such a wonderful weather in the jungle. But perhaps they were too tired from the overnight journey and 2km long trek.
And then the fun started with nimish clicking a Cat's picture from about a 50 meter distance. With sun at the top in the picture and forest all around, it looked like we clicked a mini leopard and not a cat. The picture was shared on whatsapp group with a caption "Leopard in Jilling". Umesh refused to accept that it was mini leopard but we keep on pressing the fact that it was a leopard only. Tanmeen, Sakshi and Umesh cross checked with cab driver if it was a leopard (remember, they had not reached jilling so far) and luckily, driver told them "from its walking style, it looks like a leopard. He further told them that a few days ago a full size leopard was seen in the jilling. :) So nimish's trick was working to create fun in Jilling.
We were served fresh and delicious lunch by the caretakers team led by Dilip Bhayia. One hour post lunch, the the trio joined us in the jilling and talks about 'mini leopard' became the topic of discussion for next 15 minutes. Finally everyone was right there, on the hill, in front of Jilling Terrace.
With a couple of hours sleep in the train, we reached at Kathgodam Station at 5am to begin our journey to the unknown. On one side we 6 were starting our journey to Jilling from Kathgodam, and on the other side 3 more friends were gearing up for catching the 18th Feb morning train. The trio was running late and asked cab driver to drive fast. Obeying the instructions from his customers, the way the cab driver was driving, he would have challenged the driving skills of Formula One Champion at that point of time. Thanks to early morning empty roads, the trio reached the station just a couple of minutes before the train departure. Had Usain Bolt watched the trio running with heavy suitcases in their hands and backpacks on their shoulders, he would have met Umesh offering him his coach position for his upcoming racing events.
The Journey to the Unknown
The 6 of us were in Innova by 5.30 am and started our journey to Maital, a place 30kms away from Kathgodam station. We all grabbed a quick bite in a local restaurant and continued our journey to Maital. During those 30kms we crossed a lake, a bridge over a river, some steep turns, and saw the sun spreading the sunlight on trees and houses across the region. That was beginning of a journey, which we all were going to have it in our memories for long long time. Finally, by 7am we reached Kumaoni village in Maital and were all set to begin the 2kms long trek. Excitement all around...!!!
A few meters on the trek, and one thing was very clear that it was not an easy trek as we all were thinking when we booked the Jilling Terraces. Vipul and Vishesh were looking like two guys were some other planet (Jaadoooo) were trekking like we use to walk in plains/office after lunch. That was the time, we realised how important fitness is. Another 250 meters on the trek, and couple of us decided to let others go/trek at their own pace. It generally, takes 45 Minutes to 90 Minutes depending on one’s pace to complete the trek. The trail/trek is beautiful and peaceful, cutting through lush mountain forests. In parts it is steep, sometimes soft, but always beautiful, dotted with Red Brawns flowers. The mountains half in dark, half in sunlight, the pin drop silence in the jungle, the noise of air passing through tall trees all across the jungle, the flowers and leaves on the trail and the trail made of mountain stones made the morning very beautiful and romantic.
Old Hindi songs (Junglee, Mere Sapno Ki Rani, Roop Tera Mastana, Likhe jo Khat Tujhe etc etc.) on Karaoke Mike was very helpful during the trek. We took almost 120 minutes to cover the 2 kms distance. That was the time, I realised that I was not fit at all, if I wish to cover any of the real treks in Himalayas. (This was my first discovery on the trip in pursuit to discover myself). Vipul and Vishes cover the trek in about 30 minutes and we were left wondering if it was their fitness that helped them to cover in such a short time or there was actually something, which 4 of us missed. Thats the mystery, which will remain a mystery, perhaps forever, unless and until V&V decide to open the secrets. By 9am all 6 of us were at the top of hill, in front of our guesthouse.
On the backside there was another mountain and the front side has a beautiful valley. You feel like sitting there and keep on watching the sky, the mountains, the trees, the jungle and keep wondering the life style that all we have in crowded and jam-packed urban areas. The place is so beautiful that you don't feel like doing anything other than talking to yourself for hours under the crystal clear sky. We all had fresh vegetables juice and decided to look around the property, that was looking as beautiful as we thought while booking it.
Hardly an hour in the property, and three of us were found in 'deep sleep'. And we were wondering how could some one be so cruel to the beautiful nature, how could someone be so lazy to sleep in such a wonderful weather in the jungle. But perhaps they were too tired from the overnight journey and 2km long trek.
And then the fun started with nimish clicking a Cat's picture from about a 50 meter distance. With sun at the top in the picture and forest all around, it looked like we clicked a mini leopard and not a cat. The picture was shared on whatsapp group with a caption "Leopard in Jilling". Umesh refused to accept that it was mini leopard but we keep on pressing the fact that it was a leopard only. Tanmeen, Sakshi and Umesh cross checked with cab driver if it was a leopard (remember, they had not reached jilling so far) and luckily, driver told them "from its walking style, it looks like a leopard. He further told them that a few days ago a full size leopard was seen in the jilling. :) So nimish's trick was working to create fun in Jilling.
We were served fresh and delicious lunch by the caretakers team led by Dilip Bhayia. One hour post lunch, the the trio joined us in the jilling and talks about 'mini leopard' became the topic of discussion for next 15 minutes. Finally everyone was right there, on the hill, in front of Jilling Terrace.
The Property
Nestled on a hill near Nainital, Jilling Terraces is not an easy place to reach. You need to complete a steep hike/trek for about 2 kms to reach this heaven. (There is an old saying that good things are never easy to find. And it should be that way only so that we can value and enjoy such beautiful things more.) The cottage was built way back in 1933 by a Sanskrit scholar, for his Polish wife. A few years ago, a couple from Gurgaon bought this property and started a boutique cottage, inviting travelers to experience the spirit and serenity of the mountains. They have done an excellent job of refurbishing the interiors to make them comfortable and luxurious, while maintaining the original heritage structure of the house. The home-stay comprises two large suites at ground floor and two rooms at first floor. The color palettes are inspired by various flowers and berries in the region. If the place is beautified from outside by nature, the owners and caretakers have ensured that it looks as beautiful from inside as from outside. Every furniture piece, cutlery and crockery, fabric, artifact and lamp is an art piece, which has been carefully carried over shoulders to this height as the property does not have any motor able road. There are various hang out spots around the cottage, beautiful balconies, a dining area, a small kitchenette and a charming garden where one can sit out in the evenings around a fire and watch the star-lit sky. Jilling is not an activity packed place. It's a place for slow travel, a place that allows you to re-connect with yourself and be one with nature, and an ideal place for soul-searching amidst the beautiful mountains.
The Stay
With everyone there in Jilling Terrace, we were set for what we do on our outings - Board Games Session. There was a big drawing-cum-dining room on the first floor of the property. The games session started with Dixit around 5pm along with hot tea and mix pakoras.
The sunset view from the window was quite amazing. The temperature was continuously going down and we planned to have bonfire in the open area with Karaoke Singing session.
Post dinner on day 1, there was another games session which lasted till 2am. Next morning, Dilip suggested us to have breakfast at the ridge, which was at a distance of one kilometer trek. It took us less than 30 minutes to hike to ridge and the views were breathtaking. Having breakfast on the top of hill was like we were on a picnic. Some of us decided to descend on the other side of the hill to visit a temple. Spending about an hour there with 100s of pictures, we all were descending back to the hotel.
It was hardly 11am and there was nothing to do - No nearby markets, no motorable road, no noise, no pollution. You'll be left with yourself. Thats exactly when you can meet/discover yourself. And after sometime, we were back to board games which ended after a marathon run of about 12 hours. In between we had our lunch, evening tea, fresh juice, dinner, and bonfire dance and signing sessions. Listening local focal songs live from the caretakers team was icing on the cake. Surendera and I preferred our sleep over late night games session as we were planning for hike to ridge early morning to enjoy the sunrise. 5-6 Hours sleep and we were on our way to see the sunrise at 5.30am with a local guide.
It was my first experience watching sunrise in the mountains. Sunrise was perhaps the most magnificent time of my stay in Jilling. I could feel awakening of the planet, birds, trees, and wildlife. It was a kind of a new beginning. One has to watch it to feel it. Believe me, it will not cost anything to watch a sunrise. We decided to come back via another route which was a kilometer longer than tha morning trek. One could feel passing through a dense forest with different kind of trees and bushes on the way. A significant part of the trek had Red Brawns Flowers Plants, which made it so beautiful and memorable. By 9am we were back in the property and started packing our bags as it was time to head back to Delhi.
The descend was completed in about 40 minutes and we were heading to Kainchi Dham Aashram as last part of our journey before boarding the train. Neem Karoli Baba's Kainchi Dhan Aashram has attracted tech titans including likes of Steve Jobs and Mark Zuckerberg. We offered our prayers there and headed to Kathgodam Railway station. In between we had our lunch at Bhimtal. And by 10pm we were back in Delhi
The Stay
With everyone there in Jilling Terrace, we were set for what we do on our outings - Board Games Session. There was a big drawing-cum-dining room on the first floor of the property. The games session started with Dixit around 5pm along with hot tea and mix pakoras.
The sunset view from the window was quite amazing. The temperature was continuously going down and we planned to have bonfire in the open area with Karaoke Singing session.
Post dinner on day 1, there was another games session which lasted till 2am. Next morning, Dilip suggested us to have breakfast at the ridge, which was at a distance of one kilometer trek. It took us less than 30 minutes to hike to ridge and the views were breathtaking. Having breakfast on the top of hill was like we were on a picnic. Some of us decided to descend on the other side of the hill to visit a temple. Spending about an hour there with 100s of pictures, we all were descending back to the hotel.
It was hardly 11am and there was nothing to do - No nearby markets, no motorable road, no noise, no pollution. You'll be left with yourself. Thats exactly when you can meet/discover yourself. And after sometime, we were back to board games which ended after a marathon run of about 12 hours. In between we had our lunch, evening tea, fresh juice, dinner, and bonfire dance and signing sessions. Listening local focal songs live from the caretakers team was icing on the cake. Surendera and I preferred our sleep over late night games session as we were planning for hike to ridge early morning to enjoy the sunrise. 5-6 Hours sleep and we were on our way to see the sunrise at 5.30am with a local guide.
It was my first experience watching sunrise in the mountains. Sunrise was perhaps the most magnificent time of my stay in Jilling. I could feel awakening of the planet, birds, trees, and wildlife. It was a kind of a new beginning. One has to watch it to feel it. Believe me, it will not cost anything to watch a sunrise. We decided to come back via another route which was a kilometer longer than tha morning trek. One could feel passing through a dense forest with different kind of trees and bushes on the way. A significant part of the trek had Red Brawns Flowers Plants, which made it so beautiful and memorable. By 9am we were back in the property and started packing our bags as it was time to head back to Delhi.
The descend was completed in about 40 minutes and we were heading to Kainchi Dham Aashram as last part of our journey before boarding the train. Neem Karoli Baba's Kainchi Dhan Aashram has attracted tech titans including likes of Steve Jobs and Mark Zuckerberg. We offered our prayers there and headed to Kathgodam Railway station. In between we had our lunch at Bhimtal. And by 10pm we were back in Delhi
Final Thoughts
Once you are up there on Jilling Terraces, your mind goes to a self cleansing mode. No worries, no stress, no past and no future. Time will freeze if your are in your own zone. It's a place that you visit and never leave instead you leave a part of you here - at the window sill, on the deck or at the dinner table or at the ridge and lock up its beauty in your memory so that you can revisit it every time your busy life takes over, at least till you plan to come back, which I certainly am.
Once you are up there on Jilling Terraces, your mind goes to a self cleansing mode. No worries, no stress, no past and no future. Time will freeze if your are in your own zone. It's a place that you visit and never leave instead you leave a part of you here - at the window sill, on the deck or at the dinner table or at the ridge and lock up its beauty in your memory so that you can revisit it every time your busy life takes over, at least till you plan to come back, which I certainly am.
Great post! Nainital truly deserves to be on every traveler’s bucket list. The lakes, peaceful hills and pleasant weather make it one of the best destinations near Delhi. I recently checked some Nainital Tour Package from Delhi options and was surprised to see how affordable and well-planned they are. Many packages even combine nearby hill destinations. If someone wants a longer trip, nainital ranikhet kausani tour packages are perfect for covering stunning viewpoints and Himalayan beauty. Another amazing nearby option is a Mussoorie Tour Package from Delhi, especially for family vacations and weekend getaways. Your blog really highlights the charm of Uttarakhand travel!
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