123 Hours - Valley of Flowers to Mana Village via Hemkund Sahib and Badrinath Dham
Life finds its own ways to take your wisdom and maturity to a higher elevation. My trek to the Valley of flowers and Hemkund Sahib Ji was one of the most eventful and soul warming experiences of my life. During any travel, the travelers shape for themselves a unique experience, which is a confluence of what they know, what they see and what they take away. The state of Uttarakhand is popular as ‘Dev Bhoomi’ – the abode of the Gods. Visit the valley of flowers, Hemkund Sahib, Badrinath temple once and tell me if you feel it not be 'Dev Bhoomi' even for a split of a second.
The desire to visit 'valley of flowers' had been growing strong with each passing month. But I had no idea as for how to plan the trip and whom to go with? I had been spending time on internet for learning about the trek almost every weekend, especially after i did Triund in April 2017. It was the summer of 2017, May to be precise, I decided to plan for Trek in August/September and set out towards the place that has always had a mythical aura around itself. Along with three more friends, we eventually made our bookings with IndiaHikes for Trek to Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib for Last week of August 2017. We spent 5 days and 3 hours (Hence the name 123 hours) to and from Delhi in my pursuit of self discovery. Trek to Valley of Flowers is considered 'easy'. But on its own, I feel no trek is ever easy since all require some degree of effort. The rugged terrain limits your speed and you need enough time in hand with a lot of prior planning. Also, the place remains hospitable only for three to four months during the summer. (June to September).
Preparation for Trek - Getting yourself prepared for trek requires you to remain fit and to shop carefully. It was early May 2017, when I first visited the store accidentally and for the next three months there was hardly any week, when I did not visited the store. Though You can buy the required stuff in one go, you feel like going there. There were regular interactions with the staff on duty about trekking, preparation of trekking and required stuff for trekking which eventually helped in getting my backpack ready and keeping the weight to minimal. Oh Yes, I am talking about my favourite and perhaps your favourite store - Decathlon.!!
Day 1 (500kms; Delhi-Rishikesh-Karanprayag-Chamoli-Joshimath-Govindghat)
So the journey started on 26th August. We four started around 4am from New Delhi on 500km long journey to reach Govindghat, which serves as base camp for many trekkers before they start their journey to valley of flowers or Shri Hemkund Sahib.
After a 4 hour drive, we reached Rishikesh, which is at foothills of the mountains, this place is also famous for river rafting and other water sports on banks of Holy river Ganga. After having a wonderful breakfast in Rishekesh, we embarked upon our next destination which was 'Govindghat'. It was approximately 09 hours’ of a drive. As I looked out of the window, the serene beauty of the way, left me mesmerized. It was an unbelievable journey comprising the beautiful Prayags (Devprayag, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag, Vishnuprayag), Mighty Mountains and some landslides, all the way towards Govindghat. Our first stop was at Rudraprayag, approximately 140kms from Rishikesh.
A Brief on Rudrapryag
Rudraprayag, located at an average elevation of 895 metres or 2,936 feet, is a small town. This town is located at junction of three hill districts Chamoli, Tehri & Pauri and has a lot of religious significance. Lord Shiva temple is known as Rudranath here. It is believed that Narad Muni meditated here for several years and Lord Shiva appeared in his Rudra Avtaar (incarnation) to bless Narad Muni. Rudraprayag is of immense significance for the pilgrims of Char Dham Yatra, as it is the junction for visiting Badrinath and Kedarnath Dham. The entire region is blessed with immense natural beauty, places of religious importance, lakes, mountains and glaciers.
We halted twice or thrice for the breakfast lunch and snacks. Due to road conditions and difficult terrains no vehicle can move over 35-40 kmph. Also for the same reason there is no provision of overnight buses.
We reached Joshimath around 4.30-5pm. Joshimath has a military cantonment nearby. Army men, locals and tourists crowd the shops and restaurants. You will find plenty of functional ATMs here. At Joshimath, we came to know about a major landslide just 3kms away from Govindghat, which halted journey of many vehicles, who were going to Badrinath Dham. As the way was clear till govindghat and hotel was booked, we quickly moved to Govindghat and reached Govindghat 6:30 pm and took our respective rooms at the hotel. We all were tired, yet excited. We met 16 more trekkers there making it a group of 20 people. Some of us were coming from Delhi, some came from Bangalore, some from Mumbai, some from Indore, some from Calcutta, and some from some other parts of India. Such journeys make the quote in Sanskrit “vasudhaiv kutumbakam” materializes. After a brief introduction, organizers served us dinner and all were instructed to have a sound sleep before the trek next morning. After a short walk after dinner, some of us played a couple of board games and everyone was enjoying his/her deep sleep by 11pm.
Govindghat is the place where you begin to “feel” it. The villages and towns before Govindghat were reasonably crowded, but Govindghat is sparsely populated and it primarily exists as a transition point for those who are either going to Valley of Flowers & Hemkund Sahib or go higher up the highway to Badrinath & Mana Village. A few minutes in the evening, and one can start feeling the sharp drop in temperature. One can feel the calmness in the area and all you can hear there is a noise of flowing river. Mobile phone stops catching the signals there, except for BSNL.
So the journey started on 26th August. We four started around 4am from New Delhi on 500km long journey to reach Govindghat, which serves as base camp for many trekkers before they start their journey to valley of flowers or Shri Hemkund Sahib.
After a 4 hour drive, we reached Rishikesh, which is at foothills of the mountains, this place is also famous for river rafting and other water sports on banks of Holy river Ganga. After having a wonderful breakfast in Rishekesh, we embarked upon our next destination which was 'Govindghat'. It was approximately 09 hours’ of a drive. As I looked out of the window, the serene beauty of the way, left me mesmerized. It was an unbelievable journey comprising the beautiful Prayags (Devprayag, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag, Vishnuprayag), Mighty Mountains and some landslides, all the way towards Govindghat. Our first stop was at Rudraprayag, approximately 140kms from Rishikesh.
A Brief on Rudrapryag
Rudraprayag, located at an average elevation of 895 metres or 2,936 feet, is a small town. This town is located at junction of three hill districts Chamoli, Tehri & Pauri and has a lot of religious significance. Lord Shiva temple is known as Rudranath here. It is believed that Narad Muni meditated here for several years and Lord Shiva appeared in his Rudra Avtaar (incarnation) to bless Narad Muni. Rudraprayag is of immense significance for the pilgrims of Char Dham Yatra, as it is the junction for visiting Badrinath and Kedarnath Dham. The entire region is blessed with immense natural beauty, places of religious importance, lakes, mountains and glaciers.
We halted twice or thrice for the breakfast lunch and snacks. Due to road conditions and difficult terrains no vehicle can move over 35-40 kmph. Also for the same reason there is no provision of overnight buses.
We reached Joshimath around 4.30-5pm. Joshimath has a military cantonment nearby. Army men, locals and tourists crowd the shops and restaurants. You will find plenty of functional ATMs here. At Joshimath, we came to know about a major landslide just 3kms away from Govindghat, which halted journey of many vehicles, who were going to Badrinath Dham. As the way was clear till govindghat and hotel was booked, we quickly moved to Govindghat and reached Govindghat 6:30 pm and took our respective rooms at the hotel. We all were tired, yet excited. We met 16 more trekkers there making it a group of 20 people. Some of us were coming from Delhi, some came from Bangalore, some from Mumbai, some from Indore, some from Calcutta, and some from some other parts of India. Such journeys make the quote in Sanskrit “vasudhaiv kutumbakam” materializes. After a brief introduction, organizers served us dinner and all were instructed to have a sound sleep before the trek next morning. After a short walk after dinner, some of us played a couple of board games and everyone was enjoying his/her deep sleep by 11pm.
Govindghat is the place where you begin to “feel” it. The villages and towns before Govindghat were reasonably crowded, but Govindghat is sparsely populated and it primarily exists as a transition point for those who are either going to Valley of Flowers & Hemkund Sahib or go higher up the highway to Badrinath & Mana Village. A few minutes in the evening, and one can start feeling the sharp drop in temperature. One can feel the calmness in the area and all you can hear there is a noise of flowing river. Mobile phone stops catching the signals there, except for BSNL.
A Brief Note on Govindghat
"Govindghat is a small town in Chamoli district of Uttrakhandd State in India, located at the confluence of the Alaknanda and Lakshman Ganga rivers. Situated at an altitude of 6000ft (1800mt) on NH 58, roughly 22kms from Joshimath, Govindghat serves as the starting point for trekking to Hemkund Sahib and Valley of Flowers. The holiest shrine of Badrinath is just 25kms from Govindghat while the pilgrimage on foot to the revered Sikh shrine Hemkund Sahib at an elevation of 4,600 metres goes via Govindghat. The economy thrives on the traveling season, which begins at the end of May and lasts until mid October. The place remains closed between the months of November to April. Govindghat exhibits refreshing views of the mountains covered either with the snow or by the mist. Stay and food is not at all a problem in Govindghat as the town has many hotels, lodges, guesthouses, dhabas and restaurants. And then there is a Gurudwara situated at banks of Alaknanada river, where you can stay, have food and offer prayers. This place is so clam and lively that you will not even realize that a major part of it was disrupted by the 2013 Uttarakhand Floods."
Day 2 (Govindghat to Ghangaria; 14kms)
We woke up around 6 am as we were to start the trekking early. Everybody had their bag packed for the next sight towards Ghangaria. After the medical checkup and breakfast, we gathered together for the instructions from our group leader, Crazy Jeet, which was really productive for our trip. We were following a strict 6-7-8 routine. (6am Wake up, 7am Breakfast, 8am Departure). Crazy Jeet introduced his colleagues Suri and Yash, who were a part of the Crew Team for the entire trek.
From Govindghat to Ghangaria, one covers a distance of around 14Kms and gains an altitude of around 3000 ft. We covered first 5 kms in about 15 minutes. Please dont go crazy as to how can one cover 5 kms in 15 minutes on a Trek. We hired cabs which go up to a place called Pulna, from where the real trek starts. The trail gets narrowed after Pulna and we were gradually climbing big stretches of up inclining followed by small but insignificant descents. After walking for about 2 hours and covering 5 kms we reached the bank of Laxman Ganga where we clicked pictures and had an early lunch.
After a break of 45 minutes, we were back on trails and started walking towards Ghangria which was getting steep. Legs were paining, however the passion kept us going. After After too much huffing and struggle in a distance of 4.5kms (covered in 3 hours), we finally reached the helipad of Ghangria at 3pm and it was a time for first group picture.
Crazy Jeet asked everyone to stay together so that no one is lost in finding the lodge, after reaching Ghangaria, which was at a distance of 600-700 meters from helipad. We were welcomed with some stretching exercises and self massage, after which we were served hot tea with snacks. Everyone was tired, and few of us decided to have bath with warm water. By the time, we got ready, there was voice coming to our rooms - 'Team, Join for Dinner." It was hardly 7.15 pm. And Amresh was like, "Bangalore me to kabhi 9pm pe bhi dinner nahi kiya and here at 7pm." and everyone was on laughter ride. This was the moment, everyone got connected to Amresh. By 9pm, everyone was about to sleep as we were going to follow 6-7-8 routine again the morning. Though we had a briefing on VoF trek for next morning, the trek leader and team was open for Hemkund Saib Trek or Valley of Flowers trek, depending on weather conditions.
The journey from Govindghat to Ghangaria took around 7-8 hours. The entire route is lined with small shacks selling biscuits, chocolates, drinks as well as cooked food. You will find Samosas and Jalebis as well. It is worth mentioning the efforts of administrators and Green Trail Initiatives of teams like IndiaHikes to keep the area free of plastic. (This blog will not be complete, if we don't mention our 'No-Plastic' Man, Yashpal. I would suggest you to read about his commitment on Instagram)
A Brief Note on Ghangaria
Ghangaria serves as the last stoppage that caters to visitors of two major spots, the Valey of Flowers and Hemkund Saheb, a Sikh shrine. Ghangaria comes to life only during the tourist season (May to Mid October) and closes down during the winter. It has several hotels and lodges at budget rates and one must not bother about food supplies. You will find almost everything here which you can find in urban areas, be it Momos or samosa or gulab jamun or prantha or lassi.
Day 3 (Ghangaria to Hemkund Sahib; 6.0kms)
It was all cloudy in the morning on day 3 and rains were expected. Crazy Jeet and team decided to trek for Hemkund Sahib as there was no fun going to Valley of Flowers on a rainy day. At 7am we were told that we will leave at 7.30am instead of 8 as it was going to be a long day. Hemkund Sahib is considered to be the pilgrimage for the Sikhs and a Gurudwara is present at a height of 14-15000 feet. It is accessed by a very tough 6 km trail. The trail is indeed very steep with almost no flat surface anywhere as expected.
Unlike it’s twin trek of the Valley of Flowers, Hemkund Sahib does not offer any downward slopes or straight portions. (The last 1km of the trail is accessible either through 1100 stairs or the regular steep trail). A few of us decided to use stairs while others preferred the trail. The most fit guys like Foodie Arjun, Fresh Surendra, and Explorer Geetesh reached Gurudwara by 12-12.15pm covering the distance in about 4 or four and half hours. While others reached between 12.45pm - 1.15pm.
Loveable Inspirational Pavini and Bold BhagyaShree were actually the inspirations for everyone during the trek. (Amresh was dancing, singing, and walking during the 6km long trek to Hemkund Sahib, like he was walking on plain roads, while for others completing the trek was like fighting battle of their lives). One cannot forget the 'Gulukon Vita Tablets' Sewa by Dhruv and Vidit during ascend. A few of us were hit by AMS, but the desire to see the highest altitude Gurudwara kept us going. Blessings of Gurudwara Sahib, Prayers of friends and sounds like, 'dost chal aa ja, bas pahunch hi gaye hai' helped us completing the trek. Finally everyone was in front of Gurudwara. Shri Hemkund Sahib Ji is a star shaped Gurudwara, surrounded by snowcapped mountains. We all went to the Kund/Lake and clicked some pictures. The colour of the lake made us delirious. It is difficult for me to find the right adjective to describe this shade of green. After gazing the beauty of vicinity a couple of us dipped in the holy lake and it was bone freezing cold. Then we visited the Gurudwara and offered our prayers. Feeling of having Halwa Prasad at 15000 feet height cannot be expressed in words. It was the same joy as felt by 3-4 year old kid who has got a new toy. (Pure joy from bottom of the heart). We were by that time, so we decided to have a cup of tea and dal Khichdi at langar which felt like heaven. The good thing about any Sikh trail is that at every major stoppage, there will be a gurudwara serving langar (free community meal) to anyone, no questions asked. We find the same in the previous stops at Govindghat and Ghangaria too.
There were continuous announcements requesting people to descend as rains were expected. We all started for return journey to Ghangaria around 1.30pm. Descend was not as easy as we expected it to be while ascending. It took us almost 4 - 4.30 hours, except a few who completed descent in 2.30 - 3 hrs, to complete the descend. We saw Naresh running like Milkha Singh on way to Ghangaria from Hemkund Sahib. I am sure, with his speed, he must have covered the descend in about one hour. I must thank Workaholic Dhruv and Tired Vidit for their company, without which it would have been difficult to complete the trek. Once again, we were welcomed at Ghangaria lodge with hot tea and snacks. The entire team met for about 30 minutes in one room and where the names like foodie, crazy, rockstar, strong, bold, fresh, hawa hawai, determined, adventurous, etc. were chosen. (Crazy Jeet, we all loved this exercise and it will remain in our bloods, perhaps, forever). Later on, some people played Mafia game, while others decided to rest. post our dinner at 7.30pm, few of us went outside to explore the market. By 8.30 - 9pm most of us were enjoying the deep sleep in pursuit to prepare ourselves for trek to The Valley of Flowers.
After a break of 45 minutes, we were back on trails and started walking towards Ghangria which was getting steep. Legs were paining, however the passion kept us going. After After too much huffing and struggle in a distance of 4.5kms (covered in 3 hours), we finally reached the helipad of Ghangria at 3pm and it was a time for first group picture.
Crazy Jeet asked everyone to stay together so that no one is lost in finding the lodge, after reaching Ghangaria, which was at a distance of 600-700 meters from helipad. We were welcomed with some stretching exercises and self massage, after which we were served hot tea with snacks. Everyone was tired, and few of us decided to have bath with warm water. By the time, we got ready, there was voice coming to our rooms - 'Team, Join for Dinner." It was hardly 7.15 pm. And Amresh was like, "Bangalore me to kabhi 9pm pe bhi dinner nahi kiya and here at 7pm." and everyone was on laughter ride. This was the moment, everyone got connected to Amresh. By 9pm, everyone was about to sleep as we were going to follow 6-7-8 routine again the morning. Though we had a briefing on VoF trek for next morning, the trek leader and team was open for Hemkund Saib Trek or Valley of Flowers trek, depending on weather conditions.
The journey from Govindghat to Ghangaria took around 7-8 hours. The entire route is lined with small shacks selling biscuits, chocolates, drinks as well as cooked food. You will find Samosas and Jalebis as well. It is worth mentioning the efforts of administrators and Green Trail Initiatives of teams like IndiaHikes to keep the area free of plastic. (This blog will not be complete, if we don't mention our 'No-Plastic' Man, Yashpal. I would suggest you to read about his commitment on Instagram)
A Brief Note on Ghangaria
Ghangaria serves as the last stoppage that caters to visitors of two major spots, the Valey of Flowers and Hemkund Saheb, a Sikh shrine. Ghangaria comes to life only during the tourist season (May to Mid October) and closes down during the winter. It has several hotels and lodges at budget rates and one must not bother about food supplies. You will find almost everything here which you can find in urban areas, be it Momos or samosa or gulab jamun or prantha or lassi.
Day 3 (Ghangaria to Hemkund Sahib; 6.0kms)
It was all cloudy in the morning on day 3 and rains were expected. Crazy Jeet and team decided to trek for Hemkund Sahib as there was no fun going to Valley of Flowers on a rainy day. At 7am we were told that we will leave at 7.30am instead of 8 as it was going to be a long day. Hemkund Sahib is considered to be the pilgrimage for the Sikhs and a Gurudwara is present at a height of 14-15000 feet. It is accessed by a very tough 6 km trail. The trail is indeed very steep with almost no flat surface anywhere as expected.
Unlike it’s twin trek of the Valley of Flowers, Hemkund Sahib does not offer any downward slopes or straight portions. (The last 1km of the trail is accessible either through 1100 stairs or the regular steep trail). A few of us decided to use stairs while others preferred the trail. The most fit guys like Foodie Arjun, Fresh Surendra, and Explorer Geetesh reached Gurudwara by 12-12.15pm covering the distance in about 4 or four and half hours. While others reached between 12.45pm - 1.15pm.
Loveable Inspirational Pavini and Bold BhagyaShree were actually the inspirations for everyone during the trek. (Amresh was dancing, singing, and walking during the 6km long trek to Hemkund Sahib, like he was walking on plain roads, while for others completing the trek was like fighting battle of their lives). One cannot forget the 'Gulukon Vita Tablets' Sewa by Dhruv and Vidit during ascend. A few of us were hit by AMS, but the desire to see the highest altitude Gurudwara kept us going. Blessings of Gurudwara Sahib, Prayers of friends and sounds like, 'dost chal aa ja, bas pahunch hi gaye hai' helped us completing the trek. Finally everyone was in front of Gurudwara. Shri Hemkund Sahib Ji is a star shaped Gurudwara, surrounded by snowcapped mountains. We all went to the Kund/Lake and clicked some pictures. The colour of the lake made us delirious. It is difficult for me to find the right adjective to describe this shade of green. After gazing the beauty of vicinity a couple of us dipped in the holy lake and it was bone freezing cold. Then we visited the Gurudwara and offered our prayers. Feeling of having Halwa Prasad at 15000 feet height cannot be expressed in words. It was the same joy as felt by 3-4 year old kid who has got a new toy. (Pure joy from bottom of the heart). We were by that time, so we decided to have a cup of tea and dal Khichdi at langar which felt like heaven. The good thing about any Sikh trail is that at every major stoppage, there will be a gurudwara serving langar (free community meal) to anyone, no questions asked. We find the same in the previous stops at Govindghat and Ghangaria too.
There were continuous announcements requesting people to descend as rains were expected. We all started for return journey to Ghangaria around 1.30pm. Descend was not as easy as we expected it to be while ascending. It took us almost 4 - 4.30 hours, except a few who completed descent in 2.30 - 3 hrs, to complete the descend. We saw Naresh running like Milkha Singh on way to Ghangaria from Hemkund Sahib. I am sure, with his speed, he must have covered the descend in about one hour. I must thank Workaholic Dhruv and Tired Vidit for their company, without which it would have been difficult to complete the trek. Once again, we were welcomed at Ghangaria lodge with hot tea and snacks. The entire team met for about 30 minutes in one room and where the names like foodie, crazy, rockstar, strong, bold, fresh, hawa hawai, determined, adventurous, etc. were chosen. (Crazy Jeet, we all loved this exercise and it will remain in our bloods, perhaps, forever). Later on, some people played Mafia game, while others decided to rest. post our dinner at 7.30pm, few of us went outside to explore the market. By 8.30 - 9pm most of us were enjoying the deep sleep in pursuit to prepare ourselves for trek to The Valley of Flowers.
Shri Hemkund Sahib
The Star or lotus shaped Sikh Shrine by the side of the lake is a relatively new construction. However, this is an ancient site. Garhwali locals have been visiting the lake since ages and there is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Lakshman. The place was earlier known as Lokpal and apparently also have some connections with Lord Vishnu. So, how did it got famous as a Sikh Shrine? That is because in his writings, Shri Guru Govind Singh Ji mentioned a lake like this where he meditated in his previous birth. So, many Sikh adventurers started looking for this site in the late 19th century and it was finally located in the early 20 the century. Over the next few decades it turned into a major pilgrimage trail and as usual, they were generous enough to help enlarge the adjacent Hindu temple too. If you are interested in details, please read it here.
Day 4 (Ghangaria to Valley of Flowers, 3.7Kms)
Song of the Day - Ye Hasin Wadiyan, Ye Khula Aasman (Movie Roja)
The last leg of the trek was Valley of Flowers, which actually was the reason for initial parts of the trek. The Valley of Flowers is 3.7 km from Ghangaria and it takes about 2-3 hrs to cover the distance. Situated at an altitude of 3,600 meters above sea-level in the Himalayas of Uttaranchal, this wondrous paradisiacal land was unknown to the outside world for centuries. In 1931 Mr. Frank S. Smithe, lost his way after the successful expedition of Mt. Kamet and by chance reached here. And seeing the 100+ variety of flowers in the valley, he authored a book “The Valley of Flowers" and wrote about its serene beauty, that’s how the present name was given. Valley of Flowers is a protected area. It is a part of the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO world heritage site. It was declared a national park in 1982 and a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2004. You have to pay an entrance fee of INR 150/-. Once you get past the check post, the ascending trek starts. Everywhere there is some grass, berries, shrubs, flowers but you can’t find the trees. Rain is quite unpredictable and no one one allowed to stay in the valley at night.
There is a big rock in the valley, which actually becomes the meeting point for trekkers, if they got separated during the trek. I was carrying our national flag and decided to hoist it there on the big rock. I could see smiles, respect, pride and honor in eyes of fellow trekkers, seeing the national flag on the big rock. Such moments become memories for life time. We met a professional photographer from Hyderabad on the big rock, who was carrying a Drone with him and decided to capture the flag hoisting on the big rock. (https://youtu.be/WKfx5g0gOOI)
Later on, some of us decided to visit the grave of Lady Legge, who spent a significant part of her life discovering the flowers in the valley.
This place deserves better writers and poets. Myself being neither a writer nor a poet, I would rather let the photographs do the talking. I am not a master in photography either, but at least my phone is decent. Valley of Flowers, and in fact the entire route leading to it, is a photographer’s paradise.
Around 1pm we started our journey back towards Ghangaria and by 4pm everyone was back in hotel. After having another round of tea at the lodge, there were celebrations for completing the trek successfully. Crazy Jeet showed his dance skills, with some customised dance steps, which he calls as Victory Dance. Later on, we started playing card games (Cockroach Salad, Sitting Ducks and Coup) and for many trekkers, cockroach salad became the discovery of the trip along with some flowers like Blue Poppy and Braham Kamal which are found above 15000 feet height. Games session went on till 10pm in the night (It was the longest time we were awake during the trekking period). In the mean time, we had our dinner and Milk-Jalebi one more time, just outside our lodge. By the time, the team was about to sleep, a few of us decided to experience the helicopter ride from Ghangaria to Govindghat, next morning.
Day 5
From a group of 5-6 people last evening, it became a full house with 10 trekkers decided to experience the helicopter ride. It took us less than 180 seconds to cover the distance, which took almost 6-7 hours on day 1. We were back in Govindghat market by 8.45am while other trekkers, who decided to descend on their own, reached by 11.30am. All of us had plans to visit Badrinath temple and Last Indian Village, Mana, which was at a distance of less than 30 kms. We were lucky to have a sunny day, which means less chances of landslides. Four of us started for final part of the wonderful journey just after breakfast around 9.30am, while remaining helicopter riders decided to wait for remaining member of the crew. Around 11am we reached Mana Village, from where The Indo-Tibet border is about 25 kms.
Mana Village
Thanks to its proximity to the holy land of Badrinath, Mana Village not only abounds in natural beauty but also has many spiritual tales to share. The village gets its name after the Manas Putras (Sons), the biological sons of Lord Brahma. History envelops you as you walk through its narrow lanes with traces of ancient tales from the epic Mahabharata spread all around. It is believed that the place where the heroes of the epic were on the last leg of their journey to heaven is also the birthplace of the Mahabharata. Approximately 100 meters inside the village, you find Ganesh Cave (गणेश गुफ़ा), where the epic Mahabharta and other ‘Purans’ are said to have been composed by Lord Ganesh. A steep climb up is the Vyas gufa (व्यास गुफ़ा )where Ved Vyas is believed to have lived while composing the four Vedas. It is also the place where he is said to have dictated the Mahabharta to Lord Ganesh. Saraswati river is just about 100 meters from Ganesh Cave. The Saraswati River starts from a very narrow tunnel type of natural structure and the bridge over it is called as Bhim Pul. Saraswati River is visible and above surface for about 100 meters before it submerges underground and travels a distance to finally join the confluence of Rivers Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati at Sangam near Allahabad. Many sages like Narad Muni, Vishvamitra, Lord Krishna, the Pandava brothers and several others have meditated and attained salvation on the banks of this holy river. I had always thought of Sarawati River to be hidden and was unaware that one can actually see it here, at Mana. There is also a permanent rainbow over the river at this point!!!!!
Per Hindu mythologyas Ved Vyasa was getting disturbed while recounting the Mahabharata to Lord Ganesha, as the river was too noisy. Lord Ganesha and Ved Vyasa had agreed that the tale would not be narrated more than once. Ved Vyasa made the mighty Saraswati river disappear underground. The huge volume of water in the River Saraswati at a place called Mana Gorge in Mana village is the exact place where the huge volume of the turbulent Saraswati are not visible on the other side of the gorge. Beyond the gorge, the cascading and turbulent waters disappear, there is no water visible and the sound of water disappears too.
Facing the river, stands a small Saraswati temple and India’s last shop can be spotted too! The Bhim Pul above the river is a natural bridge built from a huge rock by the Pandava brother Bhima for Draupadi. It is believed that this was the place from where the Pandava brothers started their 'accent to heaven' (swargarohini). During their transit, Draupadi was unable to cross the river and hence Bhima lifted a huge rock and placed it here which today is known as the Bhim Pul.
We visited Ganesh Cave (where Mahabharat was written), did some local shopping, had tea & maggie at Last Indian Shop (Bhartiya Seema Ki Antim Dukan), enjoyed rainbow at the origin point of Saraswati River and met Barfani Baba, who claims to be in Mana village through out the year, while villagers leave the village in the winters due to heavy snowfall. The waters of the Saraswati River at Mana Gorge, the sheer volume and sound and the permanent rainbow were breathtakingly beautiful.
“On the way to last Indian tea shop in Mana, we met a Naga Baba covered with ashes seated in one of the caves, near Bhimpul. Naga Babas or Naga Sadhus are yogis who have their bodies covered in ash and are followers of Lord Shiva. We had a brief conversation with him. What we gathered was that he has given up everything in search of Lord Shiva and spends most of his time meditating inside that small cave. He told us that he survives on minimal food and his smoke, even when his cave is all covered up by snow in winters. According to him, the idea of food is only to survive. Anything in excess is sin.” When you travel it's then you realise how diverse people's beliefs are! It was very fascinating seeing him there.
Spending a couple of hours there, we decided to visit Badrinath Temple. After offering prayers in one of the most sacred hindu temples, we were on our way back to Govindghat. There was a sudden change in the plan, and we decided to travel back to Delhi the same day. We left the place at around 5pm and reached Rishekesh around 2am. It was long 9 hours journey as travelling in mountains in night is not something that should be encouraged. We reached Delhi by 6am with loads of beautiful and unforgettable memories. It was exactly 123 hours for which we were together and made some wonderful memories. It is rightly said that the friends you make during traveling, stay with you for the longer run. We had spent a good time throughout the trek and met some outstanding people and friends. It was my first and great experience, in a large group, with the mighty Himalayas which I will cherish throughout my life.
FAQs
Let me provide a few bullet points for the benefit of future travelers.
How Many Days?
– 5-6 Days from Delhi, if planned well
Best time to visit?
– Monsoon is when the flowers bloom. Mid July to Early September is the best period but also be prepared to brave heavy rains. Carry raincoats and protect your equipment with plastic bags.
Transport?
– Train till Haridwar, Bus/Taxi from Haridwar to Govindghat Via Devprayag and Joshimath (285 Kms from Haridwar to Govindghat)
Food?
Night outs in Hemkund Sahib and Valley of Flowers?
– Strictly No. You need to start descend to Ghangaria by 2-2.30pm
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There are many ways that I would describe myself, - sarcastic, protective, wild, adventurous, passionate, rockstar, and absolutely in the wonder of the world around me. Not to forget photographer, traveler, writer and a human.
The Star or lotus shaped Sikh Shrine by the side of the lake is a relatively new construction. However, this is an ancient site. Garhwali locals have been visiting the lake since ages and there is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Lakshman. The place was earlier known as Lokpal and apparently also have some connections with Lord Vishnu. So, how did it got famous as a Sikh Shrine? That is because in his writings, Shri Guru Govind Singh Ji mentioned a lake like this where he meditated in his previous birth. So, many Sikh adventurers started looking for this site in the late 19th century and it was finally located in the early 20 the century. Over the next few decades it turned into a major pilgrimage trail and as usual, they were generous enough to help enlarge the adjacent Hindu temple too. If you are interested in details, please read it here.
Day 4 (Ghangaria to Valley of Flowers, 3.7Kms)
Song of the Day - Ye Hasin Wadiyan, Ye Khula Aasman (Movie Roja)
The last leg of the trek was Valley of Flowers, which actually was the reason for initial parts of the trek. The Valley of Flowers is 3.7 km from Ghangaria and it takes about 2-3 hrs to cover the distance. Situated at an altitude of 3,600 meters above sea-level in the Himalayas of Uttaranchal, this wondrous paradisiacal land was unknown to the outside world for centuries. In 1931 Mr. Frank S. Smithe, lost his way after the successful expedition of Mt. Kamet and by chance reached here. And seeing the 100+ variety of flowers in the valley, he authored a book “The Valley of Flowers" and wrote about its serene beauty, that’s how the present name was given. Valley of Flowers is a protected area. It is a part of the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO world heritage site. It was declared a national park in 1982 and a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2004. You have to pay an entrance fee of INR 150/-. Once you get past the check post, the ascending trek starts. Everywhere there is some grass, berries, shrubs, flowers but you can’t find the trees. Rain is quite unpredictable and no one one allowed to stay in the valley at night.
There is a big rock in the valley, which actually becomes the meeting point for trekkers, if they got separated during the trek. I was carrying our national flag and decided to hoist it there on the big rock. I could see smiles, respect, pride and honor in eyes of fellow trekkers, seeing the national flag on the big rock. Such moments become memories for life time. We met a professional photographer from Hyderabad on the big rock, who was carrying a Drone with him and decided to capture the flag hoisting on the big rock. (https://youtu.be/WKfx5g0gOOI)
Later on, some of us decided to visit the grave of Lady Legge, who spent a significant part of her life discovering the flowers in the valley.
This place deserves better writers and poets. Myself being neither a writer nor a poet, I would rather let the photographs do the talking. I am not a master in photography either, but at least my phone is decent. Valley of Flowers, and in fact the entire route leading to it, is a photographer’s paradise.
Around 1pm we started our journey back towards Ghangaria and by 4pm everyone was back in hotel. After having another round of tea at the lodge, there were celebrations for completing the trek successfully. Crazy Jeet showed his dance skills, with some customised dance steps, which he calls as Victory Dance. Later on, we started playing card games (Cockroach Salad, Sitting Ducks and Coup) and for many trekkers, cockroach salad became the discovery of the trip along with some flowers like Blue Poppy and Braham Kamal which are found above 15000 feet height. Games session went on till 10pm in the night (It was the longest time we were awake during the trekking period). In the mean time, we had our dinner and Milk-Jalebi one more time, just outside our lodge. By the time, the team was about to sleep, a few of us decided to experience the helicopter ride from Ghangaria to Govindghat, next morning.
Day 5
From a group of 5-6 people last evening, it became a full house with 10 trekkers decided to experience the helicopter ride. It took us less than 180 seconds to cover the distance, which took almost 6-7 hours on day 1. We were back in Govindghat market by 8.45am while other trekkers, who decided to descend on their own, reached by 11.30am. All of us had plans to visit Badrinath temple and Last Indian Village, Mana, which was at a distance of less than 30 kms. We were lucky to have a sunny day, which means less chances of landslides. Four of us started for final part of the wonderful journey just after breakfast around 9.30am, while remaining helicopter riders decided to wait for remaining member of the crew. Around 11am we reached Mana Village, from where The Indo-Tibet border is about 25 kms.
Mana Village
Thanks to its proximity to the holy land of Badrinath, Mana Village not only abounds in natural beauty but also has many spiritual tales to share. The village gets its name after the Manas Putras (Sons), the biological sons of Lord Brahma. History envelops you as you walk through its narrow lanes with traces of ancient tales from the epic Mahabharata spread all around. It is believed that the place where the heroes of the epic were on the last leg of their journey to heaven is also the birthplace of the Mahabharata. Approximately 100 meters inside the village, you find Ganesh Cave (गणेश गुफ़ा), where the epic Mahabharta and other ‘Purans’ are said to have been composed by Lord Ganesh. A steep climb up is the Vyas gufa (व्यास गुफ़ा )where Ved Vyas is believed to have lived while composing the four Vedas. It is also the place where he is said to have dictated the Mahabharta to Lord Ganesh. Saraswati river is just about 100 meters from Ganesh Cave. The Saraswati River starts from a very narrow tunnel type of natural structure and the bridge over it is called as Bhim Pul. Saraswati River is visible and above surface for about 100 meters before it submerges underground and travels a distance to finally join the confluence of Rivers Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati at Sangam near Allahabad. Many sages like Narad Muni, Vishvamitra, Lord Krishna, the Pandava brothers and several others have meditated and attained salvation on the banks of this holy river. I had always thought of Sarawati River to be hidden and was unaware that one can actually see it here, at Mana. There is also a permanent rainbow over the river at this point!!!!!
Per Hindu mythologyas Ved Vyasa was getting disturbed while recounting the Mahabharata to Lord Ganesha, as the river was too noisy. Lord Ganesha and Ved Vyasa had agreed that the tale would not be narrated more than once. Ved Vyasa made the mighty Saraswati river disappear underground. The huge volume of water in the River Saraswati at a place called Mana Gorge in Mana village is the exact place where the huge volume of the turbulent Saraswati are not visible on the other side of the gorge. Beyond the gorge, the cascading and turbulent waters disappear, there is no water visible and the sound of water disappears too.
Facing the river, stands a small Saraswati temple and India’s last shop can be spotted too! The Bhim Pul above the river is a natural bridge built from a huge rock by the Pandava brother Bhima for Draupadi. It is believed that this was the place from where the Pandava brothers started their 'accent to heaven' (swargarohini). During their transit, Draupadi was unable to cross the river and hence Bhima lifted a huge rock and placed it here which today is known as the Bhim Pul.
“On the way to last Indian tea shop in Mana, we met a Naga Baba covered with ashes seated in one of the caves, near Bhimpul. Naga Babas or Naga Sadhus are yogis who have their bodies covered in ash and are followers of Lord Shiva. We had a brief conversation with him. What we gathered was that he has given up everything in search of Lord Shiva and spends most of his time meditating inside that small cave. He told us that he survives on minimal food and his smoke, even when his cave is all covered up by snow in winters. According to him, the idea of food is only to survive. Anything in excess is sin.” When you travel it's then you realise how diverse people's beliefs are! It was very fascinating seeing him there.
Spending a couple of hours there, we decided to visit Badrinath Temple. After offering prayers in one of the most sacred hindu temples, we were on our way back to Govindghat. There was a sudden change in the plan, and we decided to travel back to Delhi the same day. We left the place at around 5pm and reached Rishekesh around 2am. It was long 9 hours journey as travelling in mountains in night is not something that should be encouraged. We reached Delhi by 6am with loads of beautiful and unforgettable memories. It was exactly 123 hours for which we were together and made some wonderful memories. It is rightly said that the friends you make during traveling, stay with you for the longer run. We had spent a good time throughout the trek and met some outstanding people and friends. It was my first and great experience, in a large group, with the mighty Himalayas which I will cherish throughout my life.
FAQs
Let me provide a few bullet points for the benefit of future travelers.
How Many Days?
– 5-6 Days from Delhi, if planned well
Best time to visit?
– Monsoon is when the flowers bloom. Mid July to Early September is the best period but also be prepared to brave heavy rains. Carry raincoats and protect your equipment with plastic bags.
Transport?
– Train till Haridwar, Bus/Taxi from Haridwar to Govindghat Via Devprayag and Joshimath (285 Kms from Haridwar to Govindghat)
Food?
– Mostly Vegetarian. Gulab Jamun, Jalebi, Samosa, Kachori, Prantha, Momos, Chole Bhature, Poori Sabji are easily available in Govindghat and in Ghangaria
– Strictly No. You need to start descend to Ghangaria by 2-2.30pm
----
There are many ways that I would describe myself, - sarcastic, protective, wild, adventurous, passionate, rockstar, and absolutely in the wonder of the world around me. Not to forget photographer, traveler, writer and a human.
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